From Nevers in the French département, or county, of Nièvre (in southern Burgundy), to Langogne in the French county of Lozère (in the old region of Languedoc, now the greater Occitanie), on each day’s riding, the Via Allier cycle route reveals a new aspect to the Allier River. Your major cycling adventure really starts just south of Nevers, at the magnificent Bec d’Allier, where you can see the Allier’s waters merge with those of the Loire. Beyond that point, the Via Allier separates from the famed Loire à Vélo cycle route. While many cyclists head north for the Atlantic along the Loire à Vélo, following the Via Allier, you ride southwards towards the Allier’s source.
The County of Nièvre, for a regal start
The Via Allier cycle route starts from Nevers, an historic ducal city looking down on the Loire, located in the southwest corner of the county of Nièvre, and of Burgundy. Pedal out along the Canal Latéral à la Loire, enjoying nature and peace. You head on to Le Guétin’s canal-bridge, allowing you to cross the Allier River. Just downstream, the Allier’s waters join those of the Loire, the confluence known as the Bec d'Allier.
The Allier, both a wild river and a French county
The Allier, described as one of Europe’s last-remaining major wild rivers, retains an air of mystery, but is also revealing its delights to more and more people these days. Cycling south towards its source, you cross the historic Bourbonnais area – in modern times renamed the département, or French county, of Allier – from north to south. Entering this county at Le Veurdre, learn here about the history of mariners on the Allier River. South of the old Bourbonnais capital of Moulins, the Réserve Naturelle Nationale du Val d'Allier, stretching along for 21km, has been created to protect precious flora and fauna. The river, around here, redraws its meanders year after year, a free, ever-shifting spirit. Admire the mosaic of landscapes around these parts, with riverside beaches, meadows, moors and forests all creating a veritable paradise for many sedentary nesting birds as well as migrating birds. Then, at the riverside town of Vichy, the Allier becomes more indolent, now turned into a lake here, along whose banks it’s a delight to wander.
Puy-de-Dôme, a French county marked by ancient volcanoes
The Via Allier cycle route has proved relatively easy and gentle so far, but now the distinctive mountains of a further département, or French county, the Puy-de-Dôme, appear in the distance. However, you’re first going to ride across the Limagne Plain, a peaceful, prosperous, flat stretch of fertile agricultural land that gives you time to prepare for the more demanding, volcanic terrain that you’ll have to tackle once past the great city and county capital of Clermont-Ferrand.
Haute-Loire, a French county taking you back to the heart of nature
Going from Brioude to Pradelles, riding along the Haut-Allier Gorges for some 60km, you’re rewarded with breath-taking surprises. Nature looks magnificent around here, the mountains startling, the villages ever so picturesque, often marked by medieval abbeys and Romanesque art. There are unspoilt riverside beaches to discover and stretches of water where you can travel by canoe or raft. Basically, the area is one of the Auvergne’s gems. In holiday times, the Allier Gorges tourist train offers another way to appreciate the variety of landscapes here, the rail line passing through 16 tunnels and across 51 viaducts.
